Årgång 2010 enligt Champagne Club by Richard Juhlin

★★★

En ovanligt kall vinter följdes av en kylig vår och det blev en relativt sen blomning detta år. Jag har själv haft nöjet att blanda denna årgång hos Krug tillsammans med världens ledande vinjournalister och måste säga att vinerna är alldeles för lätta, fruktiga och flörtiga för att hålla i längden.

Dock är det svårt att motstå charmen av exotiskt läskande toner av ananas, apelsinblom och mango som de flesta uppvisar. Chardonnay är generellt mer lyckosam än pinot noir. Favoriterna hittills är Selosses samtliga vingårdsviner med 2010 som bas, Krug Grande Cuvée med 2010-bas och i ren form den enastående Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises följd av Dom Pérignon, Agrapart Avizoise, J.L. Vergnon Expression de Terroir och Louis Roederer Rosé. 

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2010 by Curtis Joseph

★★

• Harvest: September 13th
• Total Sales: 319,496,853 btl
• Yield: 10,901 kg/ha (10,500 kg/ha AC) 
• France: 185,131,973 btl
• Area under vine: 33,564 ha 
• Export: 134,364,880 btl
• Average potential alcohol: 10.0%  
• Prix Constaté: €5.36/kg
• Average total acidity: 7.4 g/l
• Average gluconic acid: 0.14 g/l

Overview: A year of rain and rot almost redeemed by a beautiful September

The initial progress of 2010 was dry and warm, although it had been preceded by a hard winter with numerous frosts and a spring with several instances of hail. Flowering took place under cool conditions and required almost a week longer than average, leading to some millerandage. July and early August were again dry and warm, except for some rain in the Aisne and the western Marne Valley in mid-July. Rain began to fall from the 15th of August, however, and rot started to progress in the vineyards. Luckily the weather turned sunny and dry in September, and the harvest took place under beautiful conditions, although strict sorting was necessary. The year is considered best for Chardonnay, and losses to rot for Meunier were up to 40% in some villages. Grey rot of moderate intensity was noted over 10% of the vineyard. In addition to the classic incidence of rot, there was a particularly virulent outbreak of “tourne” in the Chardonnay vineyards. This disease is characterized by grapes whose skin becomes fragile due to botrytis that subsequently turn brown and sometimes burst. The grapes are rotten through and through. Among those who avoided these pitfalls, however, there were some notable successes. Typical of the success in the Côte des Blancs is the Vénus bottling from Agrapart: “There is a compelling smoky complexity on the nose with notes of ripe lime and tropical fruit and a bit of spice from the cask ferment underscored by a firm mineral underpinning. On the palate the mousse is creamy, but the texture of the wine is racy but not bracing. Lovely and long. pH 3.0 - 3.10.” **** (Tasted 2019)

Other regions were also successful with their Chardonnay. From the lieu-dit Le Mont Benoit in the Vesle et Ardre, Emmanuel Brochet has done impressive work with the Blanc de Blancs called Les Hauts Chardonnays: “With lovely, bright, lemony fruit, this is more structured than most. After the expressive aromas upfront, the wine shows great tension on the palate, with crisp acidity and impressive length. Dosed at 2 g/l.” **** (Tasted 2018)

Talented growers could even make a success of their Meunier. One example is the admirable tension in the Meunier Brut Nature from Christophe Mignon on the left bank of the Marne. From my notes: “…a nice mix of fresh flowers and citrus fruit on the nose; on the palate, the wine is bright and refreshing, yet there is still concentration here, and the wine sacrifices nothing in length.” **** (Tasted 2016)

It would be remiss not to mention the Côte des Bar, where many winning wines were produced in 2010. Typical of the success stories there was Olivier Horiot, whose “Sève” both in Blanc de Noirs and Rosé de Saignée was lovely: “The Blanc de Noirs shows pleasant floral and apricot notes on the nose and balanced acidity on the palate, while the Rosé de Saignée has a lovely, expressive red fruit character and a fresh and delicate feel on the palate,” **** (Tasted 2015)