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Bruno Paillard N.P.U. – Nec Plus Ultra 2009

Poäng 98/100:
Champagne från Reims

« Komplexitet får inte förväxlas med tyngd; snarare handlar det mer om elegans. Balansen och djupet hos vinerna är det som ger dem sin renhet. Komplexitet avslöjar sig bara för dem som tar sig tid att upptäcka den. Den framträder när vinerna åldras eller att man låter vinet vila i glaset en stund innan man smakar. Bruno Paillards viner växer verkligen i glaset. »

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Per flaska Per låda
Pris
2966kr
17796kr
Antal flaskor / låda: 6
Distrikt Montagne de Reims
Druvor Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
Årgång 2009
Fyllighet 6
Fruktsyra 9
Sötma 1
Procucenter Champagne från Bruno Paillard
Artikelnr 4976
Lagerstatus
Fraktkostnad 169:-
Avnjutes mellan 2024 - 2044

Här redovisar och presenterar vi kända vinskribenters utlåtande om specifika viner. Utöver dessa lägger vi in en egen kommentar när vi har provat samma vin.

Gismondi on Wine [vintage 2008]

This is the premium bottling, the Nec Plus Ultra, of Bruno Paillard, with more than 10 years on the lees, plus a couple of years in bottle before release. NPU blends 4 grand cru terroirs: Oger, Chouilly, Verzenay and Mailly, all fermented in small oak barrels for 10 months, with only the first pressing utilized. The end cepage, bottled in July 2015, is equal parts chardonnay and pinot noir, and is dosed with 3 g/l. The oak aging, powerful Grand Cru fruit, and extended time on lees has resulted in a powerful, harmonies wine, full of meringue, nougat, roasted hazelnuts, burnished orange pinned with with tight wild lemon pith around the sides, and finishing with a wide wash of salts. Very vinous and highly gastronomic; drinking beautifully now.

Falstaff [vintage 2008]

Wine Enthusiast [vintage 2008]

This Champagne is produced from grand cru vineyards in exceptional years only. Rich fruits and layers of spice mingle with the toastiness of maturity in this equal blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The wine is now ready to drink.

Druvor

Pinot noir & Chardonnay

Tasting note

N.P.U. - Nec Plus Ultra will only be made in years which we consider to be great. Nine have been made to date, with varying temperaments: the powerful 1990; the generous 1995; the whimsical 1996; the great classic 1999; the audacious 2003; the celebrated 2002; the ample 2004 and the energetic 2008. Today, 2009 in all its depth is presented to you.

Appearance: Deep, dense liquid gold with brilliant reflections. Very fine, serene, regular effervescence.

Nose: Initial aromas of Bigarreau cherry, combined with candied citrus fruit and generous white flower (seringa, jasmine) reminiscent of Mirabelle plum. On opening, the wine evolves towards calisson, nutmeg and freshly cut ginger. Fresh aromas of sandalwood and peppermint bring freshness to the aromatic complexity.

Palate: A serene attack that takes up space on the palate, around a precise, elegant structure. The wine’s persistent salinity meets the fleshy, juicy feel of the fruits on the palate. The texture is melted, and this profound wine takes its time to unfold in surprising length, carried by a fine freshness. Flavours are faithful to the aromas of the nose, offering a harmonious sensation.

Pairing: With its depth and salinity, Nec Plus Ultra 2009 is particularly well-suited to land-sea pairings: langoustines “en sous-bois” accompanied by a morel sauce, or Rossini-style scallops.

 


The wine team - Bruno Paillard 

Maison Bruno Paillard är skapat från grundarens önskan att skapa en champagne som skiljer sig från alla andra, stilen är otroligt ren.  En stor champagne för Bruno Paillard är framför allt en "sammansättning", blandad: av olika crus, druvsorter och årgångar. Det handlar om den ständiga önskan att fånga den typiska finess och elegans som champagne kan ge när den skapas med kärlek och omsorg.   Mer om Bruno Paillard Bruno Paillard-stilen är ett äktenskap mellan elegans...

Technical sheet

2009

★★★

Det visade sig snabbt att detta var en generös och avrundad årgång målad med bred pensel för den breda publiken. Många charmiga viner har nått marknaden, men knappast några kioskvältare. Precis som 2017 betydligt bättre i Bourgogne än i Champagne närheten till trots.

Främst för mig hittills är CristalCristal RoséSelosse och Cuvée William Deutz

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2009 by Curtis Joseph

★★★★

Harvest: September 8th

Total Sales: 293,330,613 btl

Yield: 12,280 kg/ha (9,700 kg/ha AC)

  France: 180,770,128 btl

Area under vine: 33,106 ha

  Export: 112,560,485 btl

Average potential alcohol: 10.3%

Prix Constaté : €5.25/kg

Average total acidity: 7.5 g/l

Average gluconic acid: 0.04 g/l

 

Overview: A warm year producing ripe wines rich in alcohol but somewhat soft

The year started with rain during the spring and a reasonably cool June, drawing out the flowering and producing millerandage in the Côte des Blancs. The cool, rainy weather also led to the beginning of mildew. Fortunately, conditions turned hot and dry and stayed that way until the middle of August. Rain arrived right at the beginning of September to help the grapes finish ripening. There was an episode of hail in the Marne Valley on the 4th of September that caused localized damage.

Otherwise, the harvest took place under impeccable conditions. Releases of the top wines continue as of this writing. There have been enough top wines that one can begin a full assessment of the vintage. Among the wines from the negociants, Roederer Cristal is the best that I have had so far: “Fresh and primary, the nose here is still somewhat closed, but on the palate, delicious bright stone and orchard fruit begin to emerge with hints of flowers and fresh almonds. The wine is lush and vibrant but has enough structure to carry the finish with great elegance. ****(Tasted 2016)

In a warm year, Blanc de Blancs can often provide a refreshing balance. A perfect example of this is the Vénus from Pascal Agrapart: “Fresh citrus peel touched with spice, mineral, and toast on the nose as one would expect, but this is dense, rich, and more creamy than is common for this wine in its youth.” **** (Tasted 2015)

The tank-fermented Chétillons from Pierre Péters showed good freshness for the vintage: “Rich, mineral, and silky,  this is a truly extraordinary wine with a mineral cast to the ripe apple and citrus fruit on the nose and lush texture and deep complexity of flavors.” **** (Tasted 2015)

Because of their cool north-facing slopes, wines produced from vineyards on the north face of the Montagne were also very successful. Penet-Chardonnet from Verzy furnishes

a great example: “Les Epinettes is tank-fermented and aged on the lees without malolactic fermentation. A Blanc de Noirs, it shows strong smoky/mineral character on the nose, yet because of the north-facing slopes, it has almost a lemon peel fruit character. On the palate, the wine is crisp and fresh, but there is still a lovely density and length – a wine to seek out. Impressive results in a warm vintage.” **** (Tasted 2019)

The profusion of vintage wines from 2009 and the quality of those from top producers demonstrates that even in warm years, Champagne can produce top quality.

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  • RP 2008 - 94p
  • RP 2002 - 97p
  • RP 1999 - 95p
  • RP 1996 - 90p
  • RP 1990 - 95p

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