Bruno Paillard 'Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut' 2014
Distrikt | Montagne de Reims |
Druvor | Chardonnay |
Årgång | 2014 |
Fyllighet | 6 |
Fruktsyra | 10 |
Sötma | 1 |
Procucenter | Champagne från Bruno Paillard |
Artikelnr | Bruno-Paillard117 |
Lagerstatus | |
Fraktkostnad | 169:- |
Avnjutes mellan | 2024 - 2034 |
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Robert Parker Wine Advocate [vintage 2013]
Disgorged in September 2021 with a dosage of 4.5 grams per liter, Bruno Paillard’s 2013 Blanc de Blancs Millésimé offers a bright and pure bouquet with aromas of verbena, spring flowers, citrus and chalky-mineral notes. Medium to full-bodied, precise and crystalline, tense, rich and perfectly balanced, it’s vibrant with a long, persistent finish. In a word: exquisite!
Bruno Paillard was born in 1953 into an old Champagne family of growers and brokers. He founded his eponymous Champagne house in 1981 and quickly gained international recognition, although it is relatively small in size. Considered to be a négociant, he owns 32 hectares of vines in 15 villages, including Oger, Le Mesnil, Verzenay and Bouzy. Although Paillard is not certified organic, the house follows many organic principles, with some parcels using biodynamics. The wines are aged on the lees for a long time, and barrels are used sparingly (in about 20% of the production). Only the juice from the first pressing is used, and most wines complete their malolactic fermentation. Bruno Paillard’s style is elegant, fresh and delicate, with a pinpoint mousse and low dosage. Today, Alice Paillard, his daughter, runs the business.
Club Oenologique – Essi Avellan MW – 2024
This bottle has benefited from 18 months of post-disgorgement evolution, so it opens with age-mellowed creamy tones over a lemony fruit core. Made of Chardonnay exclusively from Oger and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, it has an opulent fruity power; linear and firmly structured. The partial ageing in oak comes across as woody spiciness on the palate. A fine acid structure leads to an intense, zippy lemony finish. This shows quite a lot of ageing complexity already but will take further time well.
Druva
Chardonnay
Tastiing note
The Blanc de Blancs 2014 is made exclusively from the first pressing, the purest, of Grand Cru Chardonnay, from the heart of the Côte des Blancs: Oger, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Cramant and Chouilly, 25% of which are vinified in small old oak barrels.
It benefits from eight years ageing on lees and 18 months rest minimum after disgorgement.
This 2014 vintage evokes gourmandise, fleshiness and an almost exotic luxuriance… at only 3g dosage.
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Appearance: a brilliant, pale gold tint, with a fine and chiselled effervescence reflecting the wine’s long ageing period.
Nose: very enveloping with initial aromas of stone fruits, hawthorn and sea spray... Generous citrus notes such as yuzu and blood orange, enhanced by a fresh aniseed flavour. With aeration, the wine evolves towards almonds, mixed with scents of apricot.
Palate: the attack is precise and supple. On the palate, the wine is well-rounded with a beautiful ripeness. As promised by the appearance, the texture is caressing, almost unctuous. There is great aromatic coherence between the nose and the palate. The freshness of the vintage is expressed in its saline structure and persistence, without any austerity. The full flavour of the yellow fruits mixed with star anise inspires the ‘Gourmand’ theme that the artist was commissioned to illustrate this wine.
Pairing: the enveloping texture of this wine makes it a wonderful companion for seafood and raw fish. Its intensity also goes well with grilled or smoked prawns, or even certain meats such as Iberian pork with yuzu and a truffle sauce.
Production: 15,063 bottles, 993 magnums and 23 jeroboams.
The wine team - Bruno Paillard
2014
★★
Våren var varm och gav utrymme för riklig frukt. Som kontrast var juli extremt kall och regnig. En välkommen värmebölja i slutet av augusti skyndade på skörden i september. Slutresultatet är en ojämn årgång med stora regionala skillnader och en hel del urvattnade och gräsdoftande viner. Det blev dock en hel del fin Grand cru, såsom Gimonnet Spécial Club Cramant.
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2014 by Curtis Joseph
★★★
- Harvest: September 8th
- Total Sales: 307,166,142 btl
- Yield: 11,553 kg/ha (11,000 kg/ha AC)
- France: 162,253,234 btl
- Area under vine: 33,705 ha
- Export: 144,912,908 btl
- Average potential alcohol: 10.0%
- Prix Constaté : €5.89/kg
- Average total acidity: 8.3 g/l
- Average gluconic acid: 0.11 g/l
Overview: An up-and-down year that ended well.
A warm, wet autumn and winter preceding the campaign – the second warmest in twenty years, with only seven days of hard frost throughout the winter. March and April were dry and very pleasant, and budbreak was early. Rain returned in May, and although June was dry, precipitation returned in July.
August continued rainy and cool, increasing the risk of rot and mildew in the vineyard. However, botrytis was not as prevalent as it might have been in 2014. Instead, the vines were troubled by sour rot caused by a combination of acetic acid bacteria and yeast that infect grapes damaged by drosophila flies. The sour rot affected Meunier most of all and Pinot Noir to a lesser extent. Chardonnay was mostly spared, as the problem most commonly afflicts thin-skinned varieties. It is chiefly because of this issue that the vintage ranks in the three-star category rather than four-star. Meunier was also most affected by downy mildew. Fortunately, September saw a return to warm, sunny, dry weather, allowing those who had skirted these dangers to make some very successful wines.
One delicious Blanc des Blancs is the vintage Brut Nature from Vauversin in Oger: “Produced from old vines at the foot of the hill in Oger fermented in cask, this shows a wonderful concentration of lemon and chalk aromas up front, and a silky, seamless texture on the palate. Very good length.” **** (Tasted 2019)
Even Meunier could succeed in the right hands. From my notes on Laherte Frères in Chavot (Coteaux Sud d’Epernay): “Les Vignes d’Autrefois is a 100% Meunier wine from old vines located at the base of the slope in Chavot and Mancy. The fruit is fermented in neutral casks, and the result has a lovely floral fruit on the attack and a silky texture that hides surprising depth on the finish.” **** (Tasted 2019)
One notable aspect of 2014 is that there were some interesting Coteaux produced throughout the region in 2014. A blanc from Robert Moncuit in Le Mesnil was classic, almost
Burgundian: “Lemons, cream and spice on the nose, with plenty of structure and an ample, round texture on the palate, this is 18 months in 300-litre casks, although the wood influence is very well integrated and melts into the lingering finish.” **** (Tasted 2016)
Tasted quite recently, the 2014 Coteaux Champenois La Côte aux Enfants from Bollinger was riveting: “Rich, vinous, eminently Burgundian, this opens with a deep cherry fruit character with hints of violets and freshly turned earth. On the palate, there is density and concentration and an elegant lightness and a lingering, limpid finish. Marvelous.” **** (Tasted 2019)
Overall, a very good vintage that misses being top rank because of pressure from disease. 2014 has produced a large number of vintage wines and some of lasting quality.