Diebolt-Vallois - Fleur de Passion 2014

Druva

Chardonnay

Tasting note

Sourced from older vines in several lieux-dits of Cramant and picked relatively late, the Diebolt-Vallois Brut Fleur de Passion fermented in barriques first used by the Chateau de Meursault; did not, unlike their other cuvees, undergo malo-lactic transformation; and was not filtered or cold-stabilized. These factors certainly add up to a difference from this estate's other cuvees, but I am also struck by the common feature of lusciously forward pear and apple fruit backed by in this instance (at 5 grams) slightly less residual sugar than found in the other Diebolt-Vallois bottlings. The hints of spice and resin from barrel seem to accentuate this wine's nuttiness - though in that trait it resembles the Diebolt's "regular" vintage bottling.

The richness here - again, as with other of this estate's wines tasted alongside - does not, fortunately, come at the expense of buoyancy. What I fear, though, is that the wood may have robbed this of some finishing juiciness and salinity; and while there is certainly still an attractively fruity impression and rich nuttiness, I'd be happy for a bit more lasting savor and sheer refreshment.

Jacque Diebolt represents the third generation of this family of Alsacienne origin to estate-bottle, a lineage that goes all the way back to the turn of the dawn of the 20th century. He and his wife Nadia nee Vallois have established an enviable reputation and been highly influential in inspiring others to estate-bottle and consumers to appreciate Champagne as a great wine. Well-sited vineyards and a predominance of old vines and selections massales in Cramant, Chouilly, Cuis and Epernay are certainly instrumental in those achievements. Vinification here is typically at low temperature in jacketed stainless steel - which the Diebolts believe conduces to "the expression of minerality" - though certain wines see time in foudres or barriques; and with one exception they routinely undergo malo-lactic transformation.

Although most of the wines I tasted had seven grams of residual sugar in common, Madame Vallois-Diebolt sought to assure me that they conduct bench trials in one-gram increments. She added that they bottle a non-dose version of their "tradition" but only at the request of an insistent Belgian client, and I wasn't able to encourage her sufficiently to let me taste it. (This is, incidentally, one of an increasing number of top estates to officially become negociants - trading the little letters "RM" on their labels for "NM" - as a means of expanding their production, but without sacrificing one iota of viticultural control: they merely purchase the fruit from vineyards they now farm that are in the extended family, in this case Nadia Vallois' paternal estate.) 

Robert Parker Wine Advocate

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En av stjärnorna i grand cru-byn Cramant med Fleur de Passion som siin kronjuvel som kanske är det mest bytypiska uttrycket. En champagne som alltid visar upp en leende exotism med florala drag i sin ungdom men som efter ca tio år vecklar ut sin djupa elegns likt en påfågel för den tålmodige. Den första cuvéen producerades av Jacques Diebolt med sin farfar 1953. Fleur de Passion cuvée är en dyrbar och delikat champagne, komplex, intensiv och med enastående längd.

Cramant Vieilles Vignes, 7 lie-dits, average age 55 years, oldest planted 1931. 

Always selection of the oldest vines.

Youngest vines 55yrs

Oldest vines 87yrs

Lés Pimonts 

Lés Buzons

Fourchees

Fromates

Rouillés

Grosomts

Gouttes d’Or

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DÉGORGEMENT nov’17

SÛR-LIE sûr-lie 84 mois

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'Mycket nära fem stjärnor eftersom allt Diebolt gör är perfekt i sin stil. Nästan varje årgång av Fleur de Passion kommer att bli legendarisk.'

Richard Juhlin 

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Rangordning av Champagne Club by Richard Juhlin – Fleur de Passion

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Jacques Diebolt represents the third generation of this family of Alsacienne origin to estate-bottle, a lineage that goes all the way back to the turn of the dawn of the 20th century. He and his wife Nadia nee Vallois have established an enviable reputation and been highly influential in inspiring others to estate-bottle and consumers to appreciate Champagne as a great wine. Well-sited vineyards and a predominance of old vines and selections massales in Cramant, Chouilly, Cuis and Epernay are certainly instrumental in those achievements. Vinification here is typically at low temperature in jacketed stainless steel - which the Diebolts believe conduces to "the expression of minerality" - though certain wines see time in foudres or barriques; and with one exception they routinely undergo malo-lactic transformation. Although most of the wines I tasted had seven grams of residual sugar in common, Madame Vallois-Diebolt sought to assure me that they conduct bench trials in one-gram increments. She added that they bottle a non-dose version of their "tradition" but only at the request of an insistent Belgian client, and I wasn't able to encourage her sufficiently to let me taste it. (This is, incidentally, one of an increasing number of top estates to officially become negociants - trading the little letters "RM" on their labels for "NM" - as a means of expanding their production, but without sacrificing one iota of viticultural control: they merely purchase the fruit from vineyards they now farm that are in the extended family, in this case Nadia Vallois' paternal estate.) 

Robert parker Wine Advocate